Modern man is continually testing the resolve of balance between the forces extruded by Mother Nature and our propensity for what often seems impossible. None more so than the select few enthralled by the challenge of creating Cannabonsai.

The selection of suitable material that accommodates several varied traditionalist training techniques presents various challenges, and these can be exponentially more complex when it comes to utilising cannabis in bonsai. The word bonsai roughly translates to" tree in a pot"; however, this definition fails to truly capture the delicate complexity that can only be described as magic living art!

Cannabis plants respond surprisingly well when subjected to vigorous bending, breaking, and twisting of stems and branches while reacting quickly to defoliation and root pruning. All of the aspects which comprise the physicality of a cannabis plant can be subjected to the same principles traditional bonsai masters would employ. A tree may spend years, if not decades, training before being selected and awarded its bonsai pot. The timeframe to which Cannabonsai must adhere is significantly shorter, but this can be extended through various training techniques that employ light manipulation and cutting back of growth points.

The natural cycle of growth in bonsai is largely due to the root system, and in Cannabonsai, this is similar. The shallow design of traditional bonsai pots essentially restricts tap root development while stimulating a peripheral root system. This allows for surface feeding but also increases the risk of dehydration. Coupled with pot size are the planting mediums suitable for Cannabonsai. A composite mixture of clinker, gravel or volcanic stone is crushed to a medium coarse consistency and used to encourage good drainage and the differentiation of root channels. Anchoring your Cannabonsai is vital, as top-heavy budding plants could easily topple from heights resulting in what is termed "Cannanot bonsai anymore".

Nurturing a cannabis plant to the status of bonsai utilises tie-down or low-stress training (LST) methods, which work quite effectively. Facilitating a prolonged vegetative growth stage allows for plant character development that one might see in older, more traditionally trained bonsai trees.

A few common styles used in historical Chinese and Japanese bonsai training can easily be adapted to suit Cannabonsai, ranging from the Moyogi or informal upright style to the semi cascade or Hang Kengai style made famous through movies like The Karate Kid.

Watering is done via a sump tray, where the planted pot is submerged in a tepid pH-balanced water basin. Fluoride and potential volatiles in much of South Africa's public municipal water systems have a detrimental effect on bonsai through compounding nitrate and salt build-up in the restricted soil medium. Feeding should be calculated according to the pot size. While excessive build-up can be quickly rectified through flushing, it is recommended that frequent fractional fertiliser doses should be administered rather than conventional weekly doses.

Keeping and caring for Cannabonsai does provide advantages where grow space is restricted, and mobility of plants may be required. Many Cannabonsai enthusiasts prolong the life and appeal of their trees by setting about a re-vegetative growth stage directly following a harvest. Some bud and several leaves remain on the plant, whilst exposure to light hours is increased. After settling in and soil replacement, the plant will again continue into the natural vegetative growth cycle, which proceeds flowering. 

I have personally kept landrace Cannabonsai for an excess of 5 years, during which time I was able to harvest twice yearly. Careful manipulation of light exposure, selective nutrient availability, and adequate root training will prove fruitful.

Take pleasure in the fruits of your labour, provided by one of the great marvels developed through a love of art and the earth, which we now know as Cannabonsai!